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Online poker sites have SnGs running continuously. They can run with just one table or

multiple tables. But a new🛡 SnG starts as soon as it has the designated amount of

players seated and registered. There's hardly ever a wait🛡 time for play to begin. And

given the escalating blinds, there's never any shortage of action. With a minimal time

🛡 commitment they're the perfect poker format for casual poker players.

But make no

mistake - sit-and-go play is a completely different🛡 monster than cash-game play. It's

more similar to multi-table tournaments in as much as the chips you have are finite.

🛡 There are no re-buys and once your chips are gone, you are gone. So to win at poker

SnGs you🛡 need to protect the chips you're given. Here's how to do it at every stage of

a Sit & Go.

How🛡 to Win at Poker Sit & Gos

Avoid Confrontation Early

When the blinds are

low you should employ a very conservative strategy.🛡 There's no need to get

over-involved and risk tons of chips early on. There's no need to run up large🛡 bluffs

or overplay marginal hands. There will be plenty of time for being ultra-aggressive

later. What we're trying to do🛡 is stay out of the action early. But while you should

play very tight, you should still play your strong🛡 hands aggressively.

If you have a

premium hand by all means bring it in for a raise. I would never advocate🛡 anything

different. What I am saying is there's no reason to try to exploit small edges

early.

Related Reading:

An Example:

Effective stacks🛡 1,500. You have 9♠ 9♣ in the big

blind. The blinds are 20/40. There are four limpers to you. In🛡 a cash game, this is a

very easy raise. In a sit-and-go I would argue this is a check. If🛡 you want to raise

this hand, you'll have to make it at least 5 or 6x the big blind. You'll🛡 be out of

position for the rest of the hand and there are four limpers in front of you.

For the

🛡 sake of the example, you raise the pot to 240. The first two limpers fold and both the

cut-off and🛡 the button call. The flop comes Q♥ 4♠ 2♣. This flop is fairly decent for

your hand. Only one over-card🛡 and you took the lead pre-flop so you'll have to

continuation-bet this flop. You bet 2/3 the pot or about🛡 500. The cut-off folds and the

button calls.

Now what?

Now What?

Now look at the spot you're in. You've just put half

🛡 of your stack into the pot. What are you going to do on the turn? The pot is now 1,800.

🛡 If you fire again on the turn it will be for all your chips.

How much can you like your

hand?🛡 The answer is probably not that much. Checking and folding is also a pretty bad

move, as you have half🛡 of your stack in the pot. This is why I advocate the check

pre-flop while the blinds are low. It🛡 allows you to avoid a sticky situation like this

one. There are lots of situations like this.

With speculative hands that🛡 are most

likely to be good now but are not a huge favorite, there's no need to balloon a pot🛡 to

exploit some small edge you may or may not have.

The amount of chips you'll have to put

into play🛡 to find out if you do have that edge is far too many to risk when your stack

is finite.🛡 Rather than trying to push your small edges now it's better to conserve your

chips for the higher blind levels.

Related🛡 Reading:

Essential Sit & Go Tip: Play Your

Position

Just like in cash games, you should play tight from early position. By🛡 playing

tight pre-flop you simplify your decisions after the flop. What you want to avoid early

on in sit-and-gos is🛡 tough situations.

Avoid weak hands OOP.

As you know, tough

situations lead to you losing chips, so avoid those tough spots as🛡 best you can.

One

way to do that is to play even tighter from early position. You have to preserve those

🛡 chips you have because when they're gone, you're gone.

So avoid playing weak hands out

of position - you'll just be🛡 burning money.

Fold Dominated Hands in Early Position

If

you're in early position you should fold all dominated hands. Hands like A-T,🛡 A-J, K-Q

and worse should hit the muck.

They may look like decent hands but they're a trap for

most players.🛡 As I've said above you want to protect your chips early so err on the

side of caution.

You should still🛡 bring in your premium hands for raises. This is ABC

TAG (tight-aggressive) play. You want to be playing tight, but🛡 if you get a big hand,

get aggressive. Don't be afraid to raise AA-JJ, A-K, A-Q etc.

If the table has🛡 been

playing passive, you can also try to limp decent pocket pairs (TT-66).

Related

Reading:

Add Hands to Your Raising List in🛡 Middle Position

From middle position you

should play a similar tight game. You still don't want to get locked up in🛡 any battles

out of position with marginal hands. Of course you'll still be raising your premium

hands for value.

You can🛡 also add hands like AJo, AJs and KQs to your raising list. You

can start opening up your game a🛡 little bit more by limping pocket pairs and good

suited connectors, but you don't want to to put yourself in🛡 situations where you're

playing large pots with marginal hands.

Add Hands to Your Limping List in Late

Position

From late position and🛡 the button you don't need to open your game much more

than you already have in middle position.

Don't forget Gap🛡 Theory.

You have a little

more freedom but you shouldn't be raising up your ace-rag hands or J-Ts just yet. You

🛡 can however start adding some hands to your limping range.

If you can get in cheap to a

multi-way pot with🛡 a good suited connector or a pocket pair, that is a fantastic move.

You should be looking for spots where🛡 you can see a cheap flop and maybe hit a monster

and double up.

If you can do that early, it🛡 will make the later stages of a sit-and-go

much easier for you.

Related Reading:

Be Aware of the Gap Theory

Throughout all of🛡 this

you must always be aware of the gap theory. The gap theory is, in summary, this:

If the

hand is🛡 raised when it gets to you, you need a better hand to call than you would need

if you were🛡 the one making the raise.

So if you're in middle position you can raise

with A-J, but you should not call🛡 a raise with it. Simplified, you should be playing

even tighter when the pot is opened in front of you.

Mid-blind🛡 play starts at around

the 50/100 level and continues until around 100/200. The table has most likely seen a

few🛡 eliminations but is not yet short-handed.

Related Reading:

How to Beat SnGs: The

Mid-Levels

Once the blinds start escalating it's time to make🛡 some adjustments. For

one, limping should almost completely be eliminated. Open limping is pointless at this

stage of the game.

The🛡 average stack is just over 20 BBs. Limping for 5% of your stack

is giving away money. If you're going🛡 to enter a pot, enter it raising or don't enter

it at all. The time for limping is over.

Your goal🛡 now is supplementing your stack

either with cards or without.

Playing from Early Position

Limping for 5% of stack is

giving away🛡 money.

Playing from early position doesn't change that much between low-

and mid-blind play. You'll still be playing very tightly.

There are🛡 still going to be

pots contested on the flop and playing out of position makes this very difficult since

you🛡 are almost always playing for your stack on the flop.

You want to continue to play

your strong hands hard and🛡 fold your weak ones. Don't try and get creative from early

position.

Playing from Middle Position

In middle position your strategy is🛡 similar to

early position. You want to protect your chips when you're weak and you want to come in

raising🛡 when you're strong.

From middle position there's no reason to get maniacal;

however, you can open up your raising requirements the🛡 closer you get to the

button.

Late position is always where you want to be in poker. However, in sit-and-go

play🛡 it is even more important - it's where you build your stack.

Playing from Late

Position

From late position it's time to🛡 get creative. Your goal is to steal blinds -

you need to add to your stack with or without premium🛡 hands. In a sit-and-go you can't

just wait around for aces.

The blinds are escalating all the time and if you🛡 decide

that you're only gonna play monsters, then by the time you actually get one it won't

matter if you🛡 double up.

Late position is the bread and butter of a sit-and-go player.

Now that the blinds are getting up there,🛡 it's time to switch gears. Your goal now

becomes accumulating chips.

Related Reading:

How to Steal the Blinds in SnGs

The best

way🛡 to accumulate chips is by stealing blinds. Does that mean we can just start raising

any two cards all willy-nilly🛡 because we have position? No.

Don't hesitate to

steal.

Then what types of hands make suitable steal hands? The best candidates for

🛡 steal hands are ones with a reasonable chance of making something on the flop in case

you're called.

Random trash hands🛡 are still exactly that: trash. Though position is an

incredible advantage, it doesn't mean you can all of a sudden🛡 start opening up 7-2

profitably.

Think of it this way: Which hands would you play from early position in an

extremely🛡 passive cash game? This is roughly the range of hands you can now start

raising from late position. A hand🛡 like 7-8s is an excellent candidate for a

steal-raise.

A hand like J-2s, not so much. Your goal, of course, is🛡 to take the pot

down without a fight. However, you are going to get called sometimes. This is why your

🛡 hands must have at least some value on the flop.

When called, you should play your

hands on the flop similarly🛡 to how you would any other time. If you are called in one

spot then you should likely follow your🛡 pre-flop raise with a continuation bet on the

flop.

If you're called there, then you have to take a look at🛡 the strength of your hand

as a whole to decide whether to fire a second barrel.

Related Reading:

Example 1

You

have a🛡 stack of 2,100 and are on the button. The small blind has a stack of 1,800 and

the big blind🛡 has a stack of 2,000. The blinds are 50/100. It's folded around to you in

the button with 6♠ 7♠.

You🛡 raise to 300; the small and the big blind both fold. This is

what we hope for. Ideally we want🛡 to just take the pot down with no contest. The goal

is to get a fold so pat yourself on🛡 the back. Free 150 chips.

Example 2

You have a

stack of 2,100 and you're on the button. The small blind has🛡 a stack of 1,800 and the

big blind has a stack of 2,000.

The blinds are 50/100. All fold to you🛡 with J♠ T♣. You

raise to 300; the small blind folds and the big blind calls. The flop comes 7♠🛡 8♦

2♠.

The big blind checks, you bet 400 and the big blind folds. In this example we get

called pre-flop🛡 but now a nice continuation bet takes down the pot for us. Which leads

me to another point: pay attention🛡 to how the table is playing.

If people are folding

for 2.5x the BB or one-third pot-sized c-bets, then just bet🛡 that. You want to win the

pot while putting the least amount of your chips at risk as possible.

Example 3

You

🛡 have a stack of 1,400 and you're on the button. The small blind has a stack of 1,800

and the🛡 big blind has a stack of 2,000.

Be aware of table image.

Blinds are 75/150 and

all fold to you on the🛡 button with 3♠ 3♣. You raise all-in for 1,400; the blinds

fold.

This hand is different than the previous two. In🛡 this example we have only 1,400

chips and the blinds are 75/150, meaning we have less than 10 BBs.

The rule🛡 of thumb is

if you have 10 BBs or less it's better to just shove all-in than make a small🛡 raise. By

making a small raise, you're raising 30% of your stack. If you get pushed on then it

almost🛡 makes a fold mathematically impossible.

As we know one of the fundamental

theorems of poker is if you're going to call🛡 a bet, you're better off making the bet

yourself. So don't mess around with a small raise... just shove it🛡 all-in.

Related

Reading:

Be Aware of Table Image!

While playing in the mid-blind region you must always

be aware of your table image.🛡 Be aware of how others around the table perceive

you.

You'll be raising quite a lot and your opponents will change🛡 how they play against

you. Some will try and re-steal against you since they know you are raising a lot.

If

🛡 you sense your opponents have picked up you are stealing too much, slow down for a

rotation or two. You🛡 can't just constantly push people around with nothing. They'll

eventually catch on.

So be aggressive, but always keep yourself in check.

Related

🛡 Reading:

How to Beat SnGs: Post-Flop Play

This is where it gets fun. By now the game

will be short-handed with four🛡 or five players left.

Push or perish

Everyone at the

table will probably be short-stacked in the classic sense of the word.🛡 The average

stack will only be around 12 BBs. This is approaching push-or-fold time for

everybody.

Here's where you'll make your🛡 profit. Your average sit-and-go player plays

this late stage so badly it's laughable. If you play this stage better than🛡 they do you

will show a long-term positive expectation.

At this stage of the game, post-flop play

is out the window🛡 - flops are rarely seen. You have two options: push or fold. And, by

god, should you be pushing.

Related Reading:

Your🛡 Goal is to Win, Not Limp Into

Money

Your goal is to win sit-and-gos. You don't want to "limp" into the🛡 money. When

you just try and limp into the money you are throwing +EV away.

You have to have the

killer🛡 instinct to attack and destroy players who are happy just limping into the money

or moving up the pay scale.

In🛡 poker, if a player is playing scared, he's exploitable.

Everyone wants to finish in the money; nobody is playing to🛡 get eliminated. You're no

different.

But your goal is to win. Therefore, you have to look at the long term and

🛡 put the short term out of your mind. Concentrate on making good plays at the correct

time and forget about🛡 the results. If you make the correct plays, success will

eventually follow.

Related Reading:

Get More Aggressive, Not Less

The top three players

🛡 in a sit-and-go typically get paid. So when you get down to four- and five-handed play,

you've reached the bubble.

Don't🛡 get blinded out

There will almost certainly be some

short stacks thinking if they play ultra-tight they may sneak into the🛡 money. They're

wrong. You want to get more aggressive, not less.

When play is short-handed the blinds

will already be very🛡 high. Your average stack will be just 12 BBs, meaning you'll be

losing 10% of your stack to the blinds🛡 every rotation.

When the game is short-handed,

those rotations come fast and furious, decimating your stack. You're better off pushing

all-in🛡 without looking at your cards than letting yourself get blinded out.

Don't Let

Yourself Get Blinded Out!

The action is frenetic now🛡 and you should be trying to steal

as often as you can get away with it. If you get a🛡 feel players are hoping to limp into

the money, punish their blinds - they won't defend them.

If you notice someone🛡 is

calling pushes liberally, then ease up your aggression against that player. I won't

discuss in detail the hands you🛡 should be willing to push with. I will, however,

discuss the situations you should look for to get your hands🛡 all-in.

My advice would be

this: Never call off your stack hoping for a coin flip. If you think you're flipping,

🛡 you're better off folding and pushing the next hand blind. Rely on fold equity to

supplement your stack.

Your hand value🛡 is just something you can fall back on in case

you are called! I'll say it again: fold equity is🛡 more important than hand

value!

Related Reading:

A Couple of Examples:

The game is four-handed and blinds are

150/300. You have a stack🛡 of 2,900. The UTG player shoves all-in for 3,200. The button

folds. You hold 6♠ 6♣ in the SB.

You? Fold.🛡 You're hoping for a flip, best-case

scenario. Worst-case scenario, you're crushed. There's no need to call off your chips

hoping🛡 for a flip. If you just wait and shove a hand of your own accord, you'll be

better off.

Another example:

The🛡 game is four-handed and blinds are 150/300. You have a

stack of 2,900. You're UTG and shove A♦ 8♣. The🛡 button calls and the blinds fold. The

Button shows 5♠ 5♣.

OK. You got yourself in a flip. You must have🛡 screwed up,

right?

Wrong.

In this situation we shoved a good ace with less than 10 BBs. Obviously

we were hoping for🛡 a fold. However, the button decided to race with us. This result is

fine.

Look at big picture.

The small blind and🛡 the big blind folded, adding 450 in

overlay to the pot. That means the pot is laying us better than🛡 the 1-1 odds we're

getting on our hand.

But wouldn't that then make the pocket fives call correct too?

Yes, in🛡 a way it does, but that's looking at this hand in a vacuum and not seeing the

big picture.

You're not🛡 always going to show up with A-7 here. A lot of the time you'll

have a pocket pair that crushes🛡 your opponent.

Most importantly, he has no fold equity.

He can only win the hand one way: having the best hand🛡 hold up. When we shove the A-7,

we can win the pot by having everyone fold or we can win🛡 at showdown!

One Last

Example:

The game is four-handed. The blinds are 150/300. You have a stack of 1,800 and

everyone has🛡 you covered. You shove 8♥ 9♥ UTG.

The button snap-calls with A♣ K♣. The

blinds fold. Oh noez - you got🛡 called by a monster. This is terrible,

right?

Wrong.

You're only approximately a 40-60 underdog versus A-K. And guess what?

That difference🛡 in expected value is made up by the blind overlay.

So in reality you're

not in bad shape at all. No🛡 two unpaired cards are that much of a favorite against two

other non-paired hands. So don't fret if you get🛡 in "bad" - you'll know you made the

right play based on your fold equity in the hand!

This is the🛡 key to late-stage

sit-and-go play. Be the aggressor. The aggressor has two ways to win while the caller

only has🛡 one. Never allow yourself to get blinded out. Being blinded out means you gave

up on your sit-and-go.

Stop trying to🛡 limp your way to the small money and start

shoving your way to that first-place prize.

Sometimes You Have to Call🛡 in SnGs!

While

being the aggressor is the key to a quality end game, you can't just fold everything if

you🛡 aren't the initial raiser. Sometimes you're going to have to make calls.

Sometimes

you have to call.

But there are a few🛡 things to take into account before you decide to

get all passive and just call. Obviously if you have a🛡 monster, no debate: just get

your chips in the middle and hope for the best.

The times I'm talking about are🛡 those

marginal, borderline situations. You have to look at your stack. If you're the chip

leader with 20+ BBs, obviously🛡 you're going to have a lot more freedom than the guy who

has seven BBs.

If you have no money invested🛡 in the pot, then you should be less likely

to want to call off your chips. In fact you should🛡 never cold-call your chips off

unless you think you are a favorite and are getting odds on your money.

Related

Reading:

Another🛡 Example:

The game is three-handed. The blinds are 200/400. You're in

the big blind with 6,500 (after posting your blind). The🛡 button folds and the small

blind shoves for 1,200 total.

You have 8♣ 9♣. What do you do? Call.

You have 400

🛡 invested already. He shoves for 1,200 total. This means 1,600 in the pot and you only

have to call 800🛡 more. You're getting 2-1 on your call.

The player in the small blind

should be shoving almost any two cards here.🛡 Your hand stacks up very well against his

range and you're getting 2-1 on your money. You're only worse than🛡 2-1 against pocket

pairs bigger than both your cards, which is highly unlikely.

Chances are you'll get

your money in in🛡 a 60-40 situation. With no danger of getting knocked out, if you make

60-40 bets all day getting 2-1 you'll🛡 end up rich.

Related Reading:

Another

Example:

The game is three-handed. The blinds are 200/400. You're in the big blind and

have 2,400.🛡 The button folds and the small blind shoves for 3,000.

Even nits shove most

aces here.

You have A♥ T♣. What should🛡 you do? Call.

This one you have to call off your

chips. Your hand absolutely crushes the small blind's range. Even🛡 tight players are

going to be shoving most aces in this spot and your hand is far better than average.

I

🛡 would recommend you fold a smaller ace in this spot but with a big ace like A-T you

have to🛡 make the call. While I recommend against just calling in my overall strategy, I

did have to put this in🛡 here.

I'm amazed at the players I see folding hands with

incredible odds. As a rule of thumb, if you're getting🛡 better than 2-1 you should have

a pretty good reason for not calling.

Related Reading:

How to Win a Sit & Go:🛡 Heads-Up

Strategy

Once you get to the end game, you still need to seal the deal. You've learned

all the tools;🛡 now you just have to apply them one-on-one. So our focus now is heads-up

play.

Unfortunately, the way most sit-and-gos are🛡 designed online, by the time you get

to heads-up play the blinds are so big the game doesn't allow for🛡 much play.

I hope

you've accumulated some chips because if the chips are even it will be a very tight

match.🛡 Neither player will hold much of an edge over the other because of the

structure.

The match usually comes down to🛡 whomever gets the best cards in the shortest

period of time. That's not to say it's completely out of your🛡 hands though; there's

still room for you to exploit your edge.

Get Up toR$500 for Your partypoker SnG

Bankroll Now!

Watch Your🛡 Hand Values

When you're heads-up, hand values change from what

they were pre-flop in the earlier stages. Depending on how aggressive🛡 your opponent is

playing, it may be +EV to get any ace in pre-flop.

If your hand is decent shorthanded,

it's🛡 a monster heads-up.

Think of it this way: If your hand is decent short-handed it's

a monster heads-up.

Pocket pairs are very🛡 robust. Hands are usually won with just one

pair at showdown, so if you are dealt one before the flop🛡 then you're already ahead of

the game.

Hands that also increase in value are big broadway hands, like K-Q, K-J, Q-J,

🛡 K-T, etc. - ones that when they hit the flop make top pair with a good kicker.

Top pair

is a🛡 massive hand heads-up and it's almost always worthy of getting all-in. Hands that

decrease in value are weak speculative hands,🛡 like low suited connectors.

While they

may be decent hands to raise with as a steal, they should not be played🛡 against a

raise. These hands dramatically drop in value when the stacks are short.

Even if you

flop a draw, there's🛡 little money to get paid off with. When they do hit the flop, they

usually make weak second-pair type hands🛡 or gut-shot draws. Nothing you'd want to risk

your tournament life on.

Related Reading:

An Example:

You have 6,250 and so does your

🛡 opponent. Blinds are 250/500. You're in the small blind/button with J♠ T♣ and raise to

1,800.

Flop comes J♣ 6♣ 3♦.🛡 Your opponent bets 3,200. What should you do? Shove. That's

it, that's all.

This is the crux of heads-up poker in🛡 a sit-and-go. The blinds are too

big and there's so little play that if you flop top pair you're destined🛡 to get it

all-in.

Another Example:

You have 6,250 and so does your opponent. Blinds are 250/500.

You have Q♣ J♣ in🛡 the small blind/button and raise to 1,800. Your opponent calls.

Go

for the win.

The flop comes down T♠ 2♣ 9♦. Your🛡 opponent checks and you bet 3,000. Your

opponent shoves. You? Call.

You have two over-cards and an open-ended straight draw.

You🛡 only have 1,450 in your stack and there's 11,050 in the pot. To put it bluntly,

you're pot-committed.

Luckily you have🛡 a massive draw and are getting great odds. It's

hands like these your tournament will come down to. You should🛡 of course, as always in

poker, be exploiting your position to the max. Continue pushing hard when in

position.

Don't stop🛡 stealing or slow your aggression just because you're heads-up -

the game is not over until it's won. So stay🛡 on your toes and keep up the

fight.

Remember if you always make decisions as best you can you'll make money🛡 in the

long run no matter what happens in the short term. Just look long-term and always try

and make🛡 the most +EV play you can.

Related Reading:

* * * * * * * * * *

Well, that

brings our Beginners🛡 Guide to becoming a sit-and-go champion to a close. It's by no

means comprehensive - I wrote it for the🛡 average player who understands poker but wants

to take his or her sit-and-go game to the next level.

I hope it's🛡 given you enough

information to go from merely playing sit-and-go's to understanding what it takes to be

a serious winner.

Related🛡 Poker Strategy Articles

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